Bunker Summit no. 8

The riders and runners

Ah, summer waved her comely tresses and shook gentle sunshine on Dorset this week. Time for a summit!

The usual format applied, three participants (Ed, Glenn, me) bringing four mystery ales apiece, which are divided into thirds and consumed with much pondering, not a little musing and occasionally some note taking.

The first round was held in Bunker Station One's fortified garden, a fine stretch of establish grass and flora, which houses the radar station and long-neglected anti aircraft battery, before the descending temperature and waning light drove the party to amble indoors.

Here's how the candidates went down:

1. Deuchars IPA (Caledonian) 4.4%

Fairly solid starting gambit for the night. We 'can't fault the malt', and there's a little whoosh of hops but it's more a standard bitter than an IPA. Sticky mouthfeel, with a slight electrolysis carbonation tingle. 6/10 

2. Marks & Spencer Single Variety Hop Citra IPA (Oakham) 4.9% 

Absolutely delicious, a single hopped high-class wonder from M&S. Classic grapefruit Citra nose, a slightly oily mouthfeel but a drink purpose-built for summer evenings. The usually uncannily accurate Ed had this as a Galaxy hopped Partizan Saison, but he's banked so many exact tasting identifications he's still in credit. Easily an 8/10 

3. Twin Lakes Greenville Pale Ale (Twin Lakes Brewing Company) 5.2% 

 Wow! Heart-stoppingly lovely. A grand orange hop character, fresh and zingy. This is as good as a standard pale ale can be. Delivered in a can, recieved in adulation. The evening's gold medal winner by a trot. 9/10

4. Avalanche (Fyne Ales) 4.5%
A soapy and rarely seen little golden number. Offers a little bit of malt, hops and bitterness. A biscuity backdrop gives this one a gentle landscape of taste without being overly exciting. Ed described it as the "opening batsman" of the ale world, you'd sink one easily before moving onto other big-hitting event beers. 7/10 

5. Black Rocks (Buxton) 6.0% 

And so the inevitable evening ABV increase. This is a fine black IPA, blackcurrant aroma, softly carbonated with a slightly oily mouthfeel. Smooth with a big hop signature, it's stiff alcohol content is delivered gently and across the length. 7/10 

6. Schneider Weisse Tap 6 Unser Aventinus (Weissbierbrauerei G. Schneider & Sohn) 8.2% 

Ed dangerously raises stakes in the ABV hot war by unleashing this +8% Weizen Bock (dark wheat beer). Appreciated by other drinkers, it wasn't for us - wheaty and idiosyncratic but a little meh in profile, without any particularly exciting dimensions. 6/10  

7. Blacksmiths Ale (Coniston) 5.0%

Glenn reintroduces some sanity to proceedings with a fine wintery 5% ale. A textbook bold bitter, not very sessiony but as English as Bullseye repeats or wondering about the weather at the weekend. 7/10

 Food! Homebrew boiled ham, cheeses, chutneys and homemade bread

8. Scarlet Fever (Wild Beer Co.) 4.8% 

A new wave beer by the inventive Wild Beer chaps. I'm looking forward to trying the Put it in Your Pipe porter, but this effort didn't really impress us. Blunt in taste, a mulchy malt blink is followed by a watery length and gripey bitter finish, sour berries and grubby jam.  4/10 

9. Leffe 9° (InBev Belgium) 9.0% 

Ed continues to try and smash our heads in with a 9% top-fermented monster from Belgium. A fleetingly agreeable sweet big Belgian yeast hit is followed by a tailpipe of unfettered alcohol aggression, seemingly without any covering flavours to rein it in. A small-sipping ale, it's too primal to engage the drinker and unenjoyable in this company. For some reason it reminded Ed of 'having the norovirus', the reason for which we never got to the bottom of. 3/10  

10. Organic Porter (Black Isle) 4.8% 

Glenn whips out his final offering of the night, a tidy sweet and malty porter. Standard porter coffee notes on the exit, its rather agreeable and you'd certainly not turn it down over a game of chess in a high backed leather chair of a night. 7/10

11. Redwillow Smokeless (Redwillow) 5.7% 

My final gambit of the night, and a black beauty of a smoked porter. Velvety and gentle despite a moderately high ABV, this porter is furnished with chipotle chillis to add an agreeable and risque suggestion of heat. Chocolate and dark fruit weavings draw this ale together very nicely.  8/10 

12. XXXX Porter (Ringwood) 4.7% 

The final ale is inevitably a porter again, and its the Bunker local brewery Ringwood's XXXX. Who knows what the four Xs stand for, perhaps the head brewer was particularly sweary the day he created it. Stable berry notes jive along with the standard roast and coffee porter threads, a quality product despite this bottle being noted as three years past best before date on the reveal. 7/10 

********************************************** 

GOLD MEDAL 

- Twin Lakes Greenville Pale Ale (Twin Lakes Brewing Company)

Silver Medal - two way tie! 

- Redwillow Smokeless (Redwillow)

- Marks & Spencer Single Variety Hop Citra IPA (Oakham)

Bronze Medal - three way tie!

- Black Rocks (Buxton) 

- XXXX Porter (Ringwood)

- Blacksmiths Ale (Coniston)

- The Broadside

M&S Sussex Golden Ale (Hepworth & Co)

A crunchy whiff of citrus in the nose, this 3.8% ale pours with minimal head. The colour is an engaging deep straw.

The watchword here is refreshment. It has a pleasing malt bumper at the front of the sup, but the citrus finish is a delight. It spirals to a clean bitterness in a very moreish fashion.

M&S have a bottle-conditioned cracker of a session pint here, suitable for daytime drinking without drying the brain.

8/10 - Very tasty summer beer. Delicately flavoured, and as light as sunshine on a meadow.

Southwold Winter IPA (Marks & Spencer) 6.7%Abv

Pours crystal clear and beautifully golden, the aroma is delightful, a bountiful mix of grapefruit, citrus zest, and spicy hops. Its brewed by Adnams (usually under the title of Innovation) using a heady mix of US Columbus, UK Goldings, and European Boadicea hops.

The first taste is sweet and quite malty, this quickly gives way to a big punch of wheat malt flavours, clearly present and adding a different freshness. Bold bitterness follows through with a diverse depth of tone and sharpness. The finish is very spicy, with some lovely black pepper notes poking through to combine with the lingering wheat malt twang.

Not sure where to place this one, somewhere between a Duvel and Summer Lighting.

7/10 Very original, a strangely continental IPA, one to try if you like wheat beers and IPA’s.
Apologies for the picture, you reviewer was so busy "reviewing" he forgot to take a picture until it was nearly all drunk!

Cheshire Brown Ale (Marks & Spencer)

I have to be honest its up there as one of the least exciting ales I’ve seen on a shelf, as a result it was the last of the Marks & Spencer winter seasonal range to review.

It smells of fudge, toffee and crumbly brown sugar. The colour, well its not just brown, but a rather delightful caramel.

Big powerful malt to start, sweet, blending into more creamy fudge flavours coating the mouth. The middle has pockets of ripe fruit bursting through but not overpowering the initial creaminess, hints of hazelnut give a lovely depth of flavour. Gentle hopping at the end provides balance and fresh finish.

8/10 A wonderful sweet malty fudge of a beer. Great for all seasons, the pick of the range for me.

Ginger Ale (Marks & Spencer) 6%Abv

Strong aromas of freshly grated wet Ginger. Pours lighter than expected a very dark mahogany.

The first taste is fresh and sweet, and well, very gingery. This progresses into a more recognisable maltiness and beery taste, with nice hints of biscuit, Ginger nuts obviously. The finish is lacking somewhat, apart from the obvious powerful Ginger flavours. Beyond that it lingers on the palate like, dare I say it, a can of coke. Yep, this beer actually tastes rather too similar to Ginger Coke.

Maybe it's unfair to review this as a "beer" it is after all labelled as a "Ginger ale" ? The ingredients list "Glucose syrup" as a main ingredient, the taste of which is all to prevalent, making this taste more like a soft drink than a beer.

3/10 This really could be sold in cans as Coke Ginger

Southwold Dark Ale (Marks and Spencer)

More famously known as Tally Ho, this is brewed for M&S by Adnams.

Pours a ruby brown, the aromas unleashed are certainly unique, fruit but more precisely kiwi and grapes spring out as the mind grapples the tastebuds.

The palate leaps into action with rich fruit, dense plummy flavours take control then giveway to a sweet malt, like sweet muscovado sugar mixed with treacle.

More fruit in the finish, a sharper more tangy, again grapey finish, no noticeable hints of hop bittering.

It was suggested to me to try it with vintage cheddar by this man. I have to say it was tremendous, the cheese takes away the tangy edge of the beer and they compliment each other perfectly.

7/10 Inspired with cheese, drink it instead of port this christmas.

Yorkshire Christmas Ale (M&S)

A special brew created just for Marks and Spencer's by the Cropton Brewery.

It starts with an explosion of bold aromas, ripe cherry, clementines and powerful blackcurrant. The beer itself is on the ruby side of brown.

Big fruity malt to start with tangy notes, quickly flooded with ripe forest fruits. The middle lost as the edges of the mouth try to get to grips with the powerful fruit start. The finish is a long lingering aniseed, I would love to say I could spot other subtle spices there (the bottle lists nutmeg) but I am struggling.

This could almost be served warm in place of mulled wine, it feels like its almost half made of mulled wine.

4/10 A bold beer, trying to be different, sadly ends up like a beery spiced cocktail.

Southwold Winter Beer (M&S)

Brewed at Adnams by Fergus Fitzgerald, a man who knows his stuff.

Its somewhere between a light porter and a dark bitter in colour, ruby turning dark. It smells of choclate and light brown sugar.

Initialy malty but with a gentle mellow caramel smoothness. No big fruit middle or powerful spices. Tiny bitterness in the finish but mainly leaves a lingering sweetness and gentle dryness.

Reminded me of the Bath Barnstormer, but slightly thiner.

7/10 A warming christmas beer for those who don't like to stretch to a porter or stout.

Wiltshire Rum Beer (M&S)

This is a relabeled version of the Wadworth's seasonal Swordfish. Its the famous Wadworth 6X blended with Pussers Rum.

It pours exceptionally bright and clear, a glistening golden amber. The smell is malty but in place of fresh grassy hops we have a lovely subtle boozey rum smell.

The taste is big and malty, toffee sweetness with dry bitterness. The middle provides the biggest biscuity crunch i've ever had in a beer, its a famous characteristic of the Wadworth Yeast. The finish is where this beer is really different, in place of hops and bitterness we are left with a smooth Rum taste. Its very similar to the gentle finish of a Rum Coffee or the way whiskey does the job in an Irish coffee.

8/10 A malty biscuit of an ale with a warming rum finish, perfect for winter.

Thanks Marks & Spencer!

A big thanks to Marks and Spencer for providing samples of their new winter seasonals range!

Some very exciting sounding beers in here, some instantly recognisable as famous brews relabelled, others less obvious.

Perhaps you can help me fill in the blanks? And i'll update the post.

- Wiltshire Rum Beer (Wadsworth) 5% - Their seasonal Swordfish, its 6X with Prussards Rum
- Southwold Winter Beer (Adnams) 4% - ?
- Southwold Dark Ale (Adnams) 7.2% - I am guessing its Tally Ho due to the small bottle.
- Cheshire Brown Ale (Robinsons) 4.7% - ?
- Yorkshire Winter Ale (Cropton Brewery) 6.2% - ?
- Ginger Ale Stockport (Robinsons) 6% - The seasonal Ginger version of Old Tom
- Pilsner (Arcobrau) 4% - German pilsner

Looking forward to reviewing them.

Bavarian Winterfest Wheat (Marks & Spencer)

Pours a lovely deep malty brown. Smells of burnt caramel, cloves and banana.

Delicious malty taste, like brown sugar with malty edges, quickly flooded by flavours of ripe banana, hints of vanilla and gentle spices, maybe nutmeg.

The finish is warming, sweet with a little bitterness. Brewed by Arcobrau for M&S, their brewing expertise for this style is clear.

8/10 A wonderful version of the standard wheat, warming, spicy, perfect for a bonfire.

Cornish IPA (St Austell)

With a buttered cod cackling in the pan, sweet potatoes on the boil and a jolly hungry tum, the Broadside looks through his collection for an ale that is "good with fish".

Cornish IPA is a smartly dressed Marks and Spencers ale. M&S is a funny old shop, determined to self brand everything.

Saying that, of late, a few choice alternative brands have crept into the shop and for an ale drinker to have ST AUSTELL plastered across the bottle would certainly be attractive. For that is what this is, a lovely light summer ale bottle conditioned by that king of Cornish breweries. As it is, the words are there, but in small font for the discerning ale hunter to seek and be pleased with.

As an IPA, the Broadside knew this wouldn't be Admiral's Ale mk II and from the moment it left the neck into the glass he was proved correct. This is a golden ale, a summery tangerine of a beer, the bottle conditioning providing wonderful biting gas on the tongue.

The first sip is of malted biscuit, and a middle eight kisses the mouth with that St Austell yeasted paradise. This is as balanced as summery IPAs come - sharp, malty and smart in the start, fruity-chompy in the middle and with an end signature of bitter hops followed by a P.S. of caramel.

Sadly, the thing is drunk and the fish is not yet ready - back to the cupboard!

Not everyone shops at M&S, but if you do, once you've picked up your cellophane sealed courgettes and Morroccan bean houmus I urge you to take a short detour past the ale selection on the way to the till and the inevitable payment card wince. These beers are frequently on a 6 for 5 or similar offer and there are some gems from well established breweries to be found.

8/10, superb.

- The Broadside